The Art of Professional Car Spray Painting and Bodywork Repair By Mario Goldstein

Anyone who owns a collision shop can tell you that the most costly item to the shop is the comeback repair. Re-do's can be the difference between being successful and losing, and they reflect poorly on the quality standards, not to mention the inconvenience to the customer.

All it takes is one dissatisfied customer and that can translate into bad word of mouth, which means bad reputation. Collision shop managers have to be very alert when it comes to quality assurance so that they have happy customers and as few negative comebacks as possible. Negative comebacks happen when there are such things as...

- shoddy repair work,
- poor paint finish, (dull topcoat),
- grind marks showing,
- paint cracks or runs
- or paint over spray on any part of the car,

but the worst problem of all is the mismatching of color.

Technicians and management usually share the responsibility, and, in some shops, the liability, so that it's a combination of the actual repair work and maintaining proper quality assurance levels. When a mistake happens, it is also a proper analysis of what went wrong, rather than who went wrong, and taking the appropriate steps to keep the problem from re-occurring.

The Characteristics of A Painter:
Paint technicians can be a tricky type of personality, if they aren't treated right, the works suffers, and that is why some shops are now making them share the responsibilities for their work.

Technicians, on the other hand, are the wind beneath the wings, so that it's a partnership between technicians and paint technicians, so that there is no one more important than the other. It is also true that while the painter is worth their weight in gold, they can't work their magic if there isn't a good quality of prep work.

Improper paint preparation is a disaster if it isn't done properly, and if the paint technician isn't as good as required, they won't spot the problem until it's too late. The proper quality standards must be put in place and properly adhered to, or those costly mistakes and comebacks will look like money disappearing out the door.

Anyone who owns a collision shop that has a good reputation knows that while the paint preparation and the topcoat are the end result, it is also the surface preparation that has equal importance. Like when you paint a house, the prep work, sanding, filling, and proper masking all have to be done properly; in fact, many paint companies suggest collision shops must stress proper training with attention to strict guidelines.

The time and attention to quality work that is invested in the beginning will result in less money driving out the door in costly comebacks later. If a shop is to be competitive, it must stress quality. "It is a poor worker who blames his tools", is the old adage, so if collision shop owners keep hearing those types of excuses, then they should really need to do some proper damage control before it's too late

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How to Polish and Buff Your Car Like the Pros - Car Bodywork By Mario Goldstein

There are terms like convex, concave and waffle. These are terms used in the business of polishing and buffing in the auto repair shop. To most people, polishing and buffing the car is something that they do on the weekend, but in the professional world, this function takes on a much different meaning because there are so many factors to consider in creating "the perfect finish", and they require a great deal of training, more than you'd think.

The polishing shop technician has a very important job. For instance, in order to get a good finish that really shines, it is necessary to deceive the eye. This is why a good technician will never use a concentric polisher, because they move in perfect circles. An eccentric polisher is one that moves off center. It has two functions, one is to distribute the compound evenly, by pushing it into the center - this allows the compound even distribution, and it also prevents splattering of the compound and two, it confuses the eye so that the eye doesn't see any light reflected in the lines left by a conventional concentric polisher.

As far as the tools used to get that perfect finish, there is some disagreement among technicians as to what to use, the standard wool or the newer foam buffing pads. Most quality paint manufacturers have good tips on the right way to buff and polish, and you can find them on the net.

The technicians who prefer wool say that it gives the best finish, whereas the technicians who prefer the foam pads claim that they like them because they don't leave bits behind after they go. Although foam pads are new, they are evolving like anything that is new.

A recent test was done with technicians who preferred wool, and several of those technicians said they preferred the newer foam to their old wool pads. Sometimes, a technician can be attached to their way of doing things and they will say that they like their way but they have never tried anything new in years.

They will say things like the pads they tried won't remove wet or dry sand scratches from the panel, and they had to go back to wool to finish the job, but, as I mentioned earlier, old ways die-hard. So they don't like to try new products, like the newer pads that are specially designed to be more like the wool pads, but without the drawbacks.

The three main types of newer foam polish pads are convex, concave and waffle and these types of pads are designed to create a compound pocket that guides the compound toward the center of the pad and not to the outside so it won't splatter. Each of the convex, concave, or waffle pads have their own highly specialized function, but the main goal in all of this is the brilliant finish achieved by the illusion that the eye sees.

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How to Protect Your Car Paint With the Art of Paintless Dent Removal By Mario Goldstein

The ding, the dent, the impression, all of these conjure up horrible images of the collision while thinking of how much this is going to cost you, but, in reality, for the most part, these dings, dents and impressions all have one thing in common - they can be fixed without the expensive paint jobs.

Whether it's the dips from hail, to dings from runaway shopping carts or opening car doors, small, cosmetic blemishes can be repaired in a matter of minutes, when done by a well-trained, skilled professional. Understanding the process will help you to know what to look for in these unfortunate circumstances.

Usually, collision shops don't do these smaller repairs themselves they outsource them to a smaller mobile service or they will offer paintless dent removal as an additional service. Dents from the size of a dime to 2 to 3 inches in diameter and larger can be handled by a qualified professional in anywhere from 5 to 15 minutes.

In many cases the dent is so completely gone it will look like nothing was ever there, and in some other instances, all you would see to know that work had been done is a small black plug in the door end. Paintless dent removal is often the best way to retain the integrity of a custom paint job. In the hands of a qualified professional, 10 to 15 vehicles a day can be done with amazing results.

Not Always the Answer
The main concern in paintless dent removal is how much the metal was stressed (stretched) by the accident. The reason for this concern is that if the metal is stretched too much, then pushing it as it's done in paintless dent removal can distort the metal and ruin the paint.

The other consideration in paintless dent removal is the nature of the coating. Its age can make the coating brittle, or simply its condition as it left the factory. The reason that this is a concern for paintless dent removal is that a heat gun needs to be applied, and the above conditions can be very susceptible to heat ruining the coating.

Light is also used to determine all of the intricacies of the dented surface, so that there are no flaws showing when the job is complete.

Training, Techniques, and Tools
It takes more time than you might think to train as a paintless dent removal technician, it takes about 12 months to train to be a good one, and that's because you need to know all about access to the dent. Paintless dent removal technicians need to spend around $3,000 on tools because specialized tools are needed to access difficult areas in different makes and models.

So the next time you have a dent, ding, or crease, think about the paintless dent removal system, and ask if it can be done, if it can your pocketbook will thank you.

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What is Paintless Dent Removal For Car Repairs & How to Do It? - Auto Bodywork Repair By Mario Goldstein

In the fine art of paintless dent removal, there is more of a fine art involved than you might think. Not only does it require good training skills, it also requires the touch. The tools used for this procedure are long and delicate, to allow access to difficult to reach places. One wrong move can cause a wrinkle in the surface, making a highpoint that is visible when looking at the smoothness of the surface.

Wrinkled metal is one of the most difficult, if not, almost impossible repairs to do, it all depends on the force of the slip.Most often you get one chance only in paintless dent removal, it is a finesse job that requires great skill, combined with a lot of knowledge and a gentle touch.

Gaining Access:
When doing paintless dent removal, the first thing that has to be done is to gain access, whether it is the hood, roof, door, trunk, or quarter panel. Once access is gained, you have to select the right tool, not forgetting the length, tip size and diameter when you are selecting that tool.

Starting the Repair:
Once you have started the repair, delicate, and precise movements are required, many times over, it's the repetition that works the area. The metal can't be pushed, it has to be "coaxed" back into its original position, and "coaxed" is the right word being you can only remove small amounts of metal at a time. There are four major types of damage, and different ways to repair each of them. The standard dent is reversed by a massaging action at the center. For a crease, you use work from left to right, while gently applying. If you start with the smallest dent you can repair double rings can be repaired by starting.

The best way to start with is the smaller area then move to the larger one. Once you have repaired about 90 % of the damage, then you need to work on the distortion evident in the larger dent.

The trick of doing the actual repair is to get the light right on the painted side of the surface. You have already got your tool in place from the other side and now you are ready to get into the finer work.

You need to find the precision point of the tip of the tool. To do this shining the light in the same direction stand perpendicular to the crease. Don't work at an angle as the surface will look distortedLooking for the tool tip is like stretching a piece of foil and running your fingernail across it from the other side. When you are repairing the surface, you can see the tool tip you gently move it back and forth, much like the fingernail example. Start at the center, and apply pressure steadily, in finite strokes. The larger the dent, the less pressure you need.

Completing the job:
If you did have to make a hole to gain entry, apply sealant as a paint protector and continue to mend the hole.

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The Best Car Spray Painting Techniques and the Use of Spray Guns By Mario Goldstein

When you are spray painting, don't be timid. You can bet you are going to get some runs and if you don't wet the panel adequately then its going to show like a dry look with a lot of pitting pattern. If the run happens to be during the clear coat application you can usually repair that once it cures. You will be able to sand out the run and recoat the panel. Don't fall into the trap of cover-up. Meaning you load on more material to try to cover up the mistake. It just does not work.

If you follow the instructions, at least your application problems won't be as a result of not enough flash time. What happens in this case is as the application is curing the solvents in the material evaporate. If you add another coat before this has fully taken place then the material is going to flow. Do yourself a favor and always add for a little extra curing time. You can save yourself a lot of work and headaches by doing this. If the car isn't exposed to, even drying time such as what happens in cross flow spray booths then the colder side tends to run.

Finally, you get the perfect application and then a fly comes along and lands in your material. Don't panic. Use a pair of tweezers carefully to remove it. Hopefully there will just be a slight imperfection that you will able to sand then polish. Worst comes to worst you will end up respraying the panel.

Some common questions when it comes to spray painting techniques are as follows.

Is the wide pattern technique the best?
If you are using the clear materials, you can use the wide patter, but pay attention to what you are doing. You could end up with some really obvious bad patterns. The perfect spray pattern has to be perfectly even from top to bottom. The other thing you need to consider and will have to contend with is the over spray that occurs when the gun is wide open.

I have a HVLP spray gun Can I use any technique I want?
You cannot use a regular technique with this spray gun because its give out 10 psi at the cap as opposed to the 50psi in the conventional guns. This means the distance will not be as great with the HVLP gun that means you must be closer to the paint surface. For the convention guns, the standard distance is 8inches whereas with the HVLP it should be between two to four inches.

Will I be able to get as much speed with the HVLP?
Standard guns efficiency for transfer is about 25-30% whereas with the HVLP it's about 65%. So needless to say, the gun excels in this department. You have to remember though that the closer you are spraying to the target surface the faster your stroke. As you extend your distance, you can reduce your stroke. With the HVLP, your target distance is 2-4 inches.

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Learn Advanced Auto Spray Painting Techniques and Car Spray Paint Patterns By Mario Goldstein

One thing is for sure if you are going to be a paint technician then how good you are at it will all depend on how well you learn to operate your spray guns. They are the tools of the trade and can mean the difference in your being an excellent paint technician or a poor one. Not only must one learn the various techniques involved with the spray guns there is also a must have knowledge to be gained in how to maintain the spray guns to keep them in their optimum working condition. You can have all the techniques mastered but if your gun is not operating properly then in won't matter about your techniques.

You have to visualize what the spray gun is doing when in operation such as taking tiny droplets of paints then breaking these droplets down into thousands of small particles. What gives the spray gun its ability to do this is its nozzle set. This is the air cap, paint needle and the fluid tip. There are variables that determine the size of those thousands of droplets of paint. It will depend on the viscosity of the streams of fluid as well as how much surface tension is present. The reason you don't get a steady stream of paint running out is because of the compressed air at the nozzle.

Getting on to the techniques of the gun when you slightly apply pressure to the trigger the air valve opens. With a little more pressure, it opens the fluid tip needle and allows the paint to flow.

If you are using a gravity gun. The amount of fluid dispersed is controlled by the viscosity of the paint. The flow is also determined by the fluid tip as well as the needle adjustment. As a rule of thumb, the gun should be almost fully open. With pressurized fluids, air pressure also affects the flow.

Equipment Set Up:
Knowing how to work with atomization is the key to the proper set up. The combinations of the variants must be just right. For example the exact blend of the right nozzle with the correct pressure settings combined with fluid flow and fan width all the way they are suppose to be determines the outcome. Ideally, for the standard guns try and use only enough pressure to give you the best atomization and spray pattern.

If you are new to the world of spray painting the best advice in the beginning is keep it simple. In other words, use a type of spray gun that is going to do the job you need it for. There is no need to purchase a spray gun that has a lot of additives to it if you don't require them. On the other hand, if you are going to be using your spray gun on a regular basics then you may want something a little more advanced, as you will likely need it as you venture into your paint jobs.

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