Thursday, June 25, 2009

What is Paintless Dent Removal For Car Repairs & How to Do It? - Auto Bodywork Repair By Mario Goldstein

In the fine art of paintless dent removal, there is more of a fine art involved than you might think. Not only does it require good training skills, it also requires the touch. The tools used for this procedure are long and delicate, to allow access to difficult to reach places. One wrong move can cause a wrinkle in the surface, making a highpoint that is visible when looking at the smoothness of the surface.

Wrinkled metal is one of the most difficult, if not, almost impossible repairs to do, it all depends on the force of the slip.Most often you get one chance only in paintless dent removal, it is a finesse job that requires great skill, combined with a lot of knowledge and a gentle touch.

Gaining Access:
When doing paintless dent removal, the first thing that has to be done is to gain access, whether it is the hood, roof, door, trunk, or quarter panel. Once access is gained, you have to select the right tool, not forgetting the length, tip size and diameter when you are selecting that tool.

Starting the Repair:
Once you have started the repair, delicate, and precise movements are required, many times over, it's the repetition that works the area. The metal can't be pushed, it has to be "coaxed" back into its original position, and "coaxed" is the right word being you can only remove small amounts of metal at a time. There are four major types of damage, and different ways to repair each of them. The standard dent is reversed by a massaging action at the center. For a crease, you use work from left to right, while gently applying. If you start with the smallest dent you can repair double rings can be repaired by starting.

The best way to start with is the smaller area then move to the larger one. Once you have repaired about 90 % of the damage, then you need to work on the distortion evident in the larger dent.

The trick of doing the actual repair is to get the light right on the painted side of the surface. You have already got your tool in place from the other side and now you are ready to get into the finer work.

You need to find the precision point of the tip of the tool. To do this shining the light in the same direction stand perpendicular to the crease. Don't work at an angle as the surface will look distortedLooking for the tool tip is like stretching a piece of foil and running your fingernail across it from the other side. When you are repairing the surface, you can see the tool tip you gently move it back and forth, much like the fingernail example. Start at the center, and apply pressure steadily, in finite strokes. The larger the dent, the less pressure you need.

Completing the job:
If you did have to make a hole to gain entry, apply sealant as a paint protector and continue to mend the hole.

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Monday, June 15, 2009

The Best Car Spray Painting Techniques and the Use of Spray Guns By Mario Goldstein

When you are spray painting, don't be timid. You can bet you are going to get some runs and if you don't wet the panel adequately then its going to show like a dry look with a lot of pitting pattern. If the run happens to be during the clear coat application you can usually repair that once it cures. You will be able to sand out the run and recoat the panel. Don't fall into the trap of cover-up. Meaning you load on more material to try to cover up the mistake. It just does not work.

If you follow the instructions, at least your application problems won't be as a result of not enough flash time. What happens in this case is as the application is curing the solvents in the material evaporate. If you add another coat before this has fully taken place then the material is going to flow. Do yourself a favor and always add for a little extra curing time. You can save yourself a lot of work and headaches by doing this. If the car isn't exposed to, even drying time such as what happens in cross flow spray booths then the colder side tends to run.

Finally, you get the perfect application and then a fly comes along and lands in your material. Don't panic. Use a pair of tweezers carefully to remove it. Hopefully there will just be a slight imperfection that you will able to sand then polish. Worst comes to worst you will end up respraying the panel.

Some common questions when it comes to spray painting techniques are as follows.

Is the wide pattern technique the best?
If you are using the clear materials, you can use the wide patter, but pay attention to what you are doing. You could end up with some really obvious bad patterns. The perfect spray pattern has to be perfectly even from top to bottom. The other thing you need to consider and will have to contend with is the over spray that occurs when the gun is wide open.

I have a HVLP spray gun Can I use any technique I want?
You cannot use a regular technique with this spray gun because its give out 10 psi at the cap as opposed to the 50psi in the conventional guns. This means the distance will not be as great with the HVLP gun that means you must be closer to the paint surface. For the convention guns, the standard distance is 8inches whereas with the HVLP it should be between two to four inches.

Will I be able to get as much speed with the HVLP?
Standard guns efficiency for transfer is about 25-30% whereas with the HVLP it's about 65%. So needless to say, the gun excels in this department. You have to remember though that the closer you are spraying to the target surface the faster your stroke. As you extend your distance, you can reduce your stroke. With the HVLP, your target distance is 2-4 inches.

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